If you have been scrolling through social media lately, one video has taken over the feed: a delicate cone-shaped sushi hand roll that looks like it would melt in your mouth.
Debuting in early February, Noriko Handroll Bar has quickly become one of the most sought-after dining reservations in town. Located in the basement of Perilla Korean American Fare, this dimly lit restaurant features around 20 seats along a U-shaped bar, creating an almost exclusive atmosphere. However, despite its intimate setting, the counter sushi experience is among the most affordable in the city.
The Chefs behind Noriko, Rhan Whang and Billy Lim, wanted the place to feel that way—luxurious yet approachable.
We provide same-level offerings as [Omakakse restaurants] in the form of handrolls and put our twist on it.
What makes Noriko unique?
The menu offers à la carte selections with around 20 items, featuring handroll sets, appetizers, and other small plates, all priced between $8 and $38. Rhan Whang wanted to bring the handrolls he grew up making: crab, a little bit of avocado, and nori.
I got to be creative, and it was something that stuck with me.
Whang worked at Girl & the Goat for over a decade, where he advanced to the position of chef de cuisine. He aimed to acquire as much knowledge as possible about cooking and managing a restaurant; he considers Stephanie Izard a mentor and a close friend.
Working with Stephanie for so long, [you learn to be] playful with food. She brings [unique] flavor profiles into dishes and is not afraid to bring [unexpected] ingredients into dishes.
So, what is Chef Whang’s favorite dish on the menu?
The Noriko salad. It consists of red leaf lettuce, cabbage, radishes, onion, and ginger dressing, and it’s something he grew up with and has a cool inventiveness to it.
In addition to the food, Whang is managing the drinks—his chef-inspired cocktails may steal the show, featuring an old-fashioned crafted Japanese whiskey that resembles an American bourbon.
While reservations can be difficult to find, there’s no need to worry. The management is working on adding more seating and extending operating hours, which means more time slots will soon be available. Keep an eye out for new openings.